For two or three decades, cosmetics with salicylic acid have been among the leaders, especially among owners of problematic, oily and combination skin. At the same time, many people think that it is an artificial substance and has nothing to do with natural cosmetics. Therefore, in this article, it was decided to dispel the fog of mystery surrounding the substance, which is quite often used in popular cosmetics — both as an active ingredient and as a preservative. Let’s talk about what salicylic acid is, what it is obtained from, what salicylic acid gives in cosmetics and how to use it correctly so that there are no surprises.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is an organic fat-soluble acid (BHA – beta hydroxy acid) that functions as a plant hormone and is a popular keratolytic in exfoliant formulas, products for oily and problematic (especially acne-prone) skin and hair.
Most often, salicylic acid can be found in cosmetics under the labels Salicylic Acid and Acidum Salicylicum.
From the Latin “salix” – willow, from the bark of which salicylic acid was first produced. Now for cosmetics, it is also produced from the bark of white and black willow, but sometimes the bark of birch, as well as rose bushes (the rarest component in cosmetic products) is used as a raw material, etc.
It can also be found in warehouses under the names:
Betaine Salicylate is a mild salicylic acid derivative designed for sensitive skin;
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract — white willow bark extract — works much milder than classic Salicylic Acid, so it can be used by people with sensitive and couperose skin;
Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract — black willow bark extract — does not cause irritation even in high concentrations and does not dry the skin.
The substance, similar in properties to salicylic acid and obtained from willow bark, is described in ancient texts, in particular by the Greek physician Hippocrates, Sumerians, Native Americans, and Assyrians. At the same time, Italian chemist Raphael Piria is considered to be the discoverer of pure salicylic acid, the scientist isolated and synthesized it from willow bark.
What effect does salicylic acid have on the skin and hair
The effect of salicylic acid on hair and skin depends on its concentration in the cosmetic product. For example, a small content of salicylic acid in cosmetics promotes the growth of skin cells, a medium level promotes exfoliation, and a maximum level promotes skin breakdown (a high concentration of salicylic acid is suitable for removing warts).
The effect of salicylic acid on the skin
Thoroughly cleans clogged pores (in particular, prevents the appearance of comedones and new elements of inflammation),
Reduces the production of sebum,
Dissolves sebaceous plugs,
Stimulates renewal and regeneration of the skin,
Contributes to the rapid healing of small wounds and acne,
It has an antibacterial effect (in particular, it effectively fights Propionibacterium Acnes),
Softens rough skin, improving skin microcirculation,
Gradually eliminates minor skin defects (especially postacne),
Destroys desmosomes — intercellular connections of keratinized cells, contributing to skin exfoliation (in a certain concentration),
Improves skin conductivity, increasing the effectiveness of other means,
Evens out skin tone and relief (in particular, fights against visible age-related changes in the skin – pigmentation, wrinkles),
Soothes irritation and inflammation,
Prevents the problem of ingrown hair.
